Engine Prep
The replacement engine came with a 60 day warranty, but you had to replace a few parts to keep the warranty. While I was at it, I decided to replace a few parts that would make the engine more reliable. The new water pump has a steel impeller where the old one was plastic. I also replaced the rear main oil seal.
I replaced quite a few parts, various o-rings, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, and a new radiator.
I stayed away from replacing the front crank seal. The god bolt scared me off. I am referring to the infamous front crank bolt that requires ridiculous torque. It showed no signs of leaking and forum members said it normally doesn't fail.
It turns out the carrier for the rear main seal had stripped holes for the oil pan. So heli-coils had to be inserted.
One of the major problems was the oil pan. It turns out the oil pans were different as well as the oil pick up tube. I swapped the oil pan and pick up tube from the old engine to the new engine.
I decided to paint the engine block as well because it was badly rusted. The block got a good wire brushing and cleaning with naval jelly. Then a coat of POR-15 black paint.
If someone else wants to try this 528i engine swap, here is what it takes;
- Use the Z3; intake and exhaust manifolds
- Use the Z3 oil pan and sump pick up tube
- Use the oil pan bolts from the 528i engine
- Use the Z3 serpentine belt tensioner assembly
- The AC compressor, alternator and power steering will bolt up fine to the 528i engine
- In my case the 528i was a automatic. So I used the flywheel, flywheel bolts and clutch from the Z3. Plus, I had to buy a input shaft bearing for the clutch.
- Use the thermostat housing from the Z3.
- The 528i block had the engine mount holes for the Z3 but they were corroded so I used a tap to clean the threads.
- I didn't get the engine mount bolts with the 528i and the Z3 bolts were too long, so I used a Dremel to cut the ends of the engine mount bolts.
- Use the Z3 AC compressor mount bracket.
I stayed away from replacing the front crank seal. The god bolt scared me off. I am referring to the infamous front crank bolt that requires ridiculous torque. It showed no signs of leaking and forum members said it normally doesn't fail.
It turns out the carrier for the rear main seal had stripped holes for the oil pan. So heli-coils had to be inserted.
One of the major problems was the oil pan. It turns out the oil pans were different as well as the oil pick up tube. I swapped the oil pan and pick up tube from the old engine to the new engine.
I decided to paint the engine block as well because it was badly rusted. The block got a good wire brushing and cleaning with naval jelly. Then a coat of POR-15 black paint.
While the engine was out I pressure washed the engine bay and used vinegar to remove the liquid head gasket junk. Notice I left the air conditioning and power steering connected. This saved a lot of time and effort.
The motor mount bolts from the original engine were too long. So I used a Dremel with cutting wheel to shorten them.
- Use the Z3; intake and exhaust manifolds
- Use the Z3 oil pan and sump pick up tube
- Use the oil pan bolts from the 528i engine
- Use the Z3 serpentine belt tensioner assembly
- The AC compressor, alternator and power steering will bolt up fine to the 528i engine
- In my case the 528i was a automatic. So I used the flywheel, flywheel bolts and clutch from the Z3. Plus, I had to buy a input shaft bearing for the clutch.
- Use the thermostat housing from the Z3.
- The 528i block had the engine mount holes for the Z3 but they were corroded so I used a tap to clean the threads.
- I didn't get the engine mount bolts with the 528i and the Z3 bolts were too long, so I used a Dremel to cut the ends of the engine mount bolts.
- Use the Z3 AC compressor mount bracket.
Comments
Post a Comment